what size rope to use pulling a stump

Topic: Rope versus steel cable for pulling downward the tree  (Read 9596 times)

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I'm an apprentice with xx years of apprentice experience. I'm lucky in that I seldom take to deal with anything other than conifers, which are normally direct enough for me to exist able to bring them down without many surprises.

However, I have some ability lines running through my land, and the local power visitor is usually slow about bringing downward snags that threaten the lines, and then sometimes I'll have care of the ones that are far plenty abroad from the ability lines to be adequately prophylactic to piece of work with. Even and so, I NEVER only cut down such a tree; I always bring information technology downwards with a steel cablevision and a come up-along to be absolutely certain that it will come down in approximately the right management.

I have long enjoyed watching those YouTube videos of "idiots with chainsaws"; it'southward reassuring for me to know that I can instantly come across what they're doing wrong, although it actually doesn't take a lot of intelligence to discern idiocy. From at that place I started watching videos of guys demonstrating the correct way to handle certain situations. Again, about of this stuff doesn't apply to me because I'm not taking downwardly 300-twelvemonth old oaks with huge branches heading off in every management. However, I saw one guy dealing with a tricky tree, and he used rope to keep it from falling in a bad direction. "Rope?!?!" I idea. It looked like but iii/8" rope; there's no way that rope tin prevent a big tree from going in any management it dang well pleases. Even worse, the fellow tightened the rope by hand with a pulley. "Come on!" I thought.

Now, I've watched a number of videos from this beau and he has demonstrated a lot of smarts in his other stuff. And so this bothered me. I always use steel cable and a come-along to pull down a tree. Now, he wasn't using the rope to pull down the tree, just preventing it from going sideways as he cut. But even so... ROPE?!?!!

I'm asking the experts here if steel cablevision is inadvisable to use. I know that it can impale you if the connectors suspension loose. Those cables store a LOT of energy when they're taut, and if it breaks on one end (usually the tree cease), then the whole thing whips back to the other end (ordinarily the guy on the come-along). And then what'due south the consensus among the pros? Steel or rope?

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I'thousand not an expert, and I only use rope crusade it'southward what I have, but I always weight the line when I'g pulling. I hang a gear pocketbook or something from it. Should aid foreclose lash dorsum, though I've never had it.

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OK, I'll bite because I have done a lot of these. First there are two things to consider: A) are you trying to guide the tree where you desire just in case it tends to go another manner, or ii) Are yous trying to strength the tree to go the way you want in spite of the physics? The first option is a precautionary measure to provide insurance and safety, the second is an technology maneuver.
 I always try to figure things out so that any rigging is simply ensuring that everything works out as planned and protects 'exposures' in example it doesn't. For these type jobs I use static rope, almost 3/4" or more in bore. Sometimes a block and tackle in residential situations where a building is involved, pulled tight and secured confronting a fall in the WRONG management. I merely use cable when I am forcing a move, that is, actually pulling the tree where I need it to be. I desire minimum stretch and flex in these situations, and I want to transmit all the pulling power directly to the tree.
 Keep in mind that EVERYTHING will stretch. Rope, cable, concatenation, even steel bar volition stretch. The question is, how much? Rope will of course stretch the most and therefore hold the about stored energy, cable less, and steel bar, much less. I have seen steel cable go through a truck hood (information technology had a hook on it), but nothing scared me more than when we straightened out a claw on a rope block and tackle (3x2 sheaves) and that cake shot well-nigh twoscore' until it ran out of rope and shot back once again.
 If you want safe, put yourself in the forestry cab of a skidder and use the 1/2" cable winch to pull your tree over. Cablevision does shop energy, merely nothing virtually what a practiced rope tin store. If you lot set your rigging for minimal load on the lines and maximum safety of the drib zone, y'all really tin't get wrong. This sounds simple, but information technology takes some practise to actually think through the physics involved. It's a fine art and it is VERY gratifying when you become it just right. Personally, rope is my outset choice because it is easy to work with and feels proficient in my easily, but I become to cable or chain for the worrisome piece of work.
 Did that aid?

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Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Wood Products
Oscar 328 Band Factory, Husky 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and as well many paw tools. Retired and trying to make a living to stay that manner. NYLT Certified.
OK, peradventure I am the woodcutter now.
I can work with wood, but I am Not a Woodworker, but almost.

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...I always weight the line when I'1000 pulling. I hang a gear pocketbook or something from it. Should help prevent lash dorsum, though I've never had it...

That's a great idea! Definitely solves the lash back problem. I volition practice that. Thanks!

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If I want a tree to fall "pretty-much" exactly in a sure spot, we apply my brothers Deutz with a logging winch and 1/2 inch steel cable and secure it up on the tree betwixt 15 and 20 anxiety.

Otherwise, I'll use my 1/ii inch nylon/cotton blend rope and hook it onto the front of the loader on my little JD-1023E.  I'll back up until the rope is snug, so stretch the rope another ten-15 feet and gear up the brake!

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~Chuck~
Retired USAF 1989, Retired School Bus Commuter 2012, Retired Mobile Sawyer 2022, 2018 Silverado 4X4, Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener and unmarried-molar setter
Basic mechanical skills are all that's required to maintain a Woods-Mizer

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A) are you trying to guide the tree where you want just in example it tends to go some other way, or ii) Are yous trying to force the tree to become the way you want in spite of the physics?

The former; I wouldn't touch a tree that was leaning in a dangerous direction. That'southward a trouble I leave to the pros. Merely once again, since I'm dealing with conifers, I don't face up anywhere near as tough a trouble as other people face.
Almost all of my snags are dead Douglas firs. The higher summer temperatures from global warming are killing many of my Douglas firs. I did a quick demography of about 8 acres of my country and found 51 dead Douglas firs and 55 living Douglas firs (I don't count the little guys in the census). At least 12 of those snags threaten the power lines. Moreover, I need to get them out before fire season starts in hostage in July. Over again, Douglas firs are pretty easy to bring downwards safely.

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hey Oregon.  I assume you live there.  How hot are your summers getting?  I had not heard that global warming was killing doug firs.

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Timber rex 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home congenital log splitter 18 equus caballus 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered past a 12 volt tarp motor

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we get global worming its chosen summer and global cooling its called winter

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I accept used tow straps, rope, cable and I take a 85 pes 1/ii" chain I got on clearance at TSC.  Use caution with all, but particularly the chain.  Oregon, since simply i/ii of your trees are expressionless, might want to run into if there is a forester in your area to see what has acquired their demise, to protect the other copse.  doug firs are tough copse that can sometimes survive woods fires due to thick bawl.  Permit us know what you observe.

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Timber king 2000, 277c rail loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 country dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter xviii equus caballus 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered past a 12 volt tarp motor

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The newer synthetic ropes (wire rope I think it'due south chosen) is very potent.  The 3/8" has something like a 20,000 lb working load limit. Nonetheless I don't recall I'd apply it for tree piece of work. I accept an aversion to roping trees though.

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Kubota 8540 tractor, FEL saucepan and forks, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 570 Sportsman ATV
1 Husky ane gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
241 acres of woodland

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My son runs an arborist company, where he gets called in to drop the tricky trees.
He does the climbing and cutting, I do the rigging for lowering tree sections or directional felling.
Nosotros only use synthetic ropes.
The take the weight advantage over steel, are rated for over 20, 000 lbs. and accept minimal stretch. About zero stored energy because of the "no-streach" character of the rope.
If the OP is doing a bunch of the Doug Fir work mentioned earlier, have a look at a Maasdam puller. It's like a come forth merely lighter, uses rope and it's not a pricey tool.

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LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

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 Medico,  I have consulted the state forester here (near Eugene Oregon) and was told that due to the unusual dry seasons we have been experiencing the fir trees go stressed (weakened ) then the bugs motion into the tree.  On my place it takes about three years and I take a dead tree. these are from 8" to 24" bore doug fir. I have lost about xxx copse on my niggling acerage with more than in the dying process
.
 As for what to use to guide or pull a tree (directional falling) I prefer cable, (wire rope, hay wire) I trust my cognition with cablevision better than rope.

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Physician,  I have consulted the state forester here (about Eugene Oregon) and was told that due to the unusual dry seasons we have been experiencing the fir trees go stressed (weakened ) then the bugs move into the tree.  On my identify information technology takes virtually three years and I accept a dead tree. these are from 8" to 24" bore doug fir. I have lost most 30 copse on my lilliputian acerage with more in the dying process
.
 Equally for what to employ to guide or pull a tree (directional falling) I prefer cable, (wire rope, hay wire) I trust my noesis with cable meliorate than rope.

Did the state forester talk near whether or not you had any evidence of Phellinus sulphurascen?  That is a big killer of DF in the NW function of the The states (Oregon and Washington especially)  Aye the extra dry summers that we take had and the extra wet winters have stressed all the tree species but what yous describe of nearly 50% loss (55 living and 51 dead) seems to be a chip much for the conditions that we accept experienced.  What is your soil blazon in on your country?  I would presume that the state forester brought out a full site analysis to review with you and assistance you with your plan.

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some of the fungal diseases are treatable, just non practical on a large scale.  The environment including draught and heat tin can brand an otherwise healthy tree more than susceptible to disease.  I practise not intendance to blame global warming/climate change for everything/(annihilation).  Oregon, y'all seem like a smart guy and are going about this in a expert fashion.  My comments are not meant to be directed at you lot in anyway. It is so politicized it is blamed for everything and therefore you can believe footling that is published about it.  Oregon, I promise you can detect a practical solution to save your remaining trees.  Best wishes.

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Timber rex 2000, 277c rail loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter xviii equus caballus 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch carve up range with conveyor powered past a 12 volt tarp motor

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I came out of the maritime industry, there was less and less wire, "amsteel" or "spectra" constructed was used alot. I used a slice of 2.five" viii strand for yanking over hazard copse, rated at 150tons. The problem with the synthetic stuff is damage, yous've deceit have them rub, chaff, drag on the ground, that's what ruins them over wire.

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A&P saw Manufactory LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

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I've seen good employ of rope for my part. And so again, beeing in the same industry every bit Mr.Barge above here, its commercially graded rope from the fishing/trawl industry. I use 16mm rope (not certain what that is in inches) for a skyline-setup, and it works like nothing else. Non the longest streches, but upward to 300feet has worked for me.

For pulling trees over, I use a Spectra/Dynema rope, rated for 12 000 kg, in the range of 24-25 000 pounds (?). Its ligth plenty to hang on my climbing harness and bring up with me when I climb, and strong enough to strength about copse over the way I want it. Only like said in a higher place, it dont similar pinchpoints and sharp edges. If I'yard in doubt, I rig it upwardly with blocks/tackles, to make sure I get plenty pullingpower. A mechanical advantage is always skilful to accept, and ofcourse, having a long plenty slice of rope. My dynemaline is 120meters, wich is very handy.

Best regards
Odd.

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Near of the time playing with something along lines roads, lines, or property corners I�ll jack over Douglas fir. Are y'all certain you don�t accept root rot running in your patch?

A) are yous trying to guide the tree where y'all want merely in case information technology tends to go another way, or ii) Are you lot trying to force the tree to go the way y'all desire in spite of the physics?

The former; I wouldn't touch a tree that was leaning in a unsafe management. That'south a trouble I go out to the pros. But again, since I'one thousand dealing with conifers, I don't face anywhere well-nigh as tough a problem every bit other people face.
Most all of my snags are dead Douglas firs. The higher summer temperatures from global warming are killing many of my Douglas firs. I did a quick census of near 8 acres of my land and found 51 dead Douglas firs and 55 living Douglas firs (I don't count the piddling guys in the census). At least 12 of those snags threaten the power lines. Moreover, I need to go them out earlier fire season starts in earnest in July. Once more, Douglas firs are pretty easy to bring downward safely.

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Around here the property owner can exist liable for damage to the ability visitor's power lines/ power poles if the belongings owner's copse fall on the lines. Hence in recent years there has been quite a lot of tree clearance work along the power company's power lines. Most holding owners effigy information technology is less expensive to get the tree guys before whatever big trees fall/ blow over on the lines and cease upwardly with two payments - power co and tree guy.

Steel cable if the power lines  tin can be turned off. Check yous accept no neighbours with respirators or expensive tropical fish in a tank (estrus and water oxygenator etc), chicken farms usually have generators. etc.

Lines tin't be turned off - dyneema etc. Helicopters/ cranes have been used to take copse apart with wire cablevision. (or lighten one side of the tree so when the tree is cut at the stump it falls abroad from the lines. Road closure - had to drop the copse on the roadway - cheaper than shifting the ability lines.
One roadway with the trees at the top of a steep depository financial institution with ability lines backside took a week to drop the trees downwards the depository financial institution onto the road and cleanup. (Power company's tree coiffure)

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